Both chardonnay and pinot noir tell their stories across a broad arc of expression; from pale, fair and ethereal to saturated and stacked. In some vintages, these voices come together in one symphonic chorus but oftentimes, the highest possible answer allows us – or rather, demands – that we turn our attention to a single expression and allow it to rise into a bottle of its own.
Only produced in certain vintages, Aequorin chardonnay and Obelin pinot noir step down from the risers and into the spotlight to deliver the rarest solo performances.
The 2019 Obelin is an absolute anomaly. Not just different from the rest of the pinot noir barrels, different than anything we’ve ever seen in our cellar, in this valley – in a pinot noir altogether. This wine carries less the personality of the maker, of our hands; instead, it carries completely the character of the farmer, the culture of the site.
Fruit that is dry farmed on soil that is never broken by till or plow, and the resultant complexity of the vineyard floor guild, exhibits, always, a tannic architecture that belies the region as a whole and the variety itself. This is pinot noir in cabernet franc’s clothing. It carries a freshness both red and green, red current and tobacco leaf; the articulation of tannin rarely seen beyond Barolo. It walks the line between elegance and the edge. It is the rarest thing.